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Life and Death in Varanasi

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“Don’t go to Varanasi.” That’s what we’d been told by a few people we’d met on our trip. “You’ll either love it or hate it,” others had said. It’s certainly not for the faint-hearted. Filthy, smoggy, the traffic is insane – it makes New Delhi seem like The Cotswolds. But it is one of, if not the most mesmerising and unforgettable…

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