“Don’t go to Varanasi.” That’s what we were warned by a few fellow travellers. “You’ll either love it or hate it,” others had said. It’s certainly not for the faint-hearted. Filthy, smoggy, the traffic is insane – it makes New Delhi seem like The Cotswolds. But it is one of, if not the most mesmerising and unforgettable places we have ever been.
First Impressions of Varanasi
Picture this: a post-apocalyptic scene. Bonfires in the street, alarms blaring, litter and waste everywhere and a choking smog so thick it’s difficult to breathe. Your tuk-tuk weaves through traffic coming from every direction, horns honking, brakes screeching, avoiding other vehicles by centimetres. You arrive at the sacred river Ganges as the sun sets and the mist is rolling in, boarding a small boat that takes you out onto the water. As you drift closer to the riverbank, you stop near a cremation point. Five bonfires burn in front of you, with bodies being cremated right there on the river’s edge. It’s almost Medieval, or like a scene from The Bible. You know what’s happening but you can’t take your eyes off it. A morbid curiosity. This is Varanasi.
Varanasi: The Spiritual Heart of India
Varanasi is not just a city; it’s a living testament to India’s spiritual heritage. Hindus believe that the city was founded by the god Shiva and pilgrims come from all over the country to bathe in the sacred river Ganges. The ghats – the steps that lead into the river – are not just places to visit; they are centers of spiritual life.
Here, rituals and ceremonies unfold, and we were lucky enough to witness one of the most stunning: the evening ceremony at Dasaswamedh Ghat. As the sun set, seven priests lined up to perform a ritual of light in gratitude to Mother Ganges. The air was filled with the sound of conch horns, bells, and chants, while candles flickered and incense wafted across the water. It was a beautiful, almost surreal experience.
A Day at Dawn on the Ganges: Life and Death in the River
In the morning we revisited the ghats and saw a typical day at dawn on the river. Children practicing yoga, pilgrims bathing in the water, meditating, praying and cremations taking place all day long. Female family members are not allowed to attend the cremations, apparently they are too emotional and they cry all the time (our guide actually said this!), so they stay at home while the men perform the ceremonies.
We were standing on a ghat when a body, wrapped in white cloth, was brought down by the family. The body was bathed in the Ganges River, and then placed on a funeral pyre to be cremated. In Hinduism, it’s believed that dying in Varanasi and being cremated here can free one’s soul from the cycle of rebirth and death, granting liberation and achieving nirvana.
Varanasi: A City of Contradictions
Varanasi is a city that can’t be easily summed up. It’s a place of contradictions, where life and death are constantly intertwined. Ugly yet beautiful, chaotic yet peaceful. It’s impossible to fully capture the essence of this place in words or pictures. What we can say is that Varanasi is an experience – one that stays with you long after you leave. We’re not sure we’ll ever encounter another place like it.
Comments (2)
Great post with fabulous photos. That certainly is a great experience.
Thanks Sue, it certainly was an experience!